Apart from Puja and prasadam, high tea takes the centre stage during the Navaratri festival in Chennai

Navaratri is here and the dolls that are safely bubble wrapped and stored in the attic have been brought out and arranged thematically on the golu padi (steps) and decorated with lights and flowers. It is that time of the year when friends and family visit golus, taking time out to socialise. The trend today however is that families that display the golu, do not just offer prasadam/naivedyam such as sundal or puttu to the guests but also meticulously plan an elaborate menu and gifts.

Padma Devadoss of VGN Builders, says she hires caterers to serve an elaborate high tea in bandhi style (where guests are seated and food is served on a banana leaf). “There is puja every day of Navaratri, and I invite guests home in the evenings. I plan the menu by July and inform Arusuvai Arasu Catering Services. Guests are slotted into four categories: relatives and cousins, business contacts, school and college friends, and neighbours. This way, I get to spend time and socialise with them,” says Padma, who started grand Navaratri celebrations in 2015.

Dahi Dosa by Canvas Cafe
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Special Arrangement

Chef Santosh of Canvas Cafe, Alwarpet,. who has been catering for Navaratri high tea, says that the trend of hiring caterers for two or three days during the nine-day festival is catching up. “We stick to traditional food, but with a twist. For example, we make cone-shaped millet idlis steamed in peepal leaves and thematic cupcakes. We make stuffed kozhukattai, using sprouts or microgreens. Our dahi dosa is popular, wherein I make mini dosas, and stuff them with different types of fillings such as potato, mushrooms, sprouts, and roll them, and arrange them in a shallow tray. Over this, we drizzle curd beaten with spices and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds and minced coriander leaves,” he says, adding that they ensure all the items do not contain onion or garlic.

Sabudana Vada by Canvas Cafe
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Special Arrangement

Cone shaped millet idli by Canvas Cafe
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Special Arrangement

For Andal Aghoram, educationist and co-founder of Veranda Learning Solutions, Navaratri is a grand celebration in her joint family. “I run a school called Veranda International School. My sisters-in-law and I together organise and plan the celebrations, the return gifts and guest list two months ahead and discuss the menu with the caterers. We ensure that we serve only traditional food items, although we indulge children with ice cream,” says Andal. As many people fast during Navaratri, Andal makes sure there is sabudada kichdi or vada and poha on the menu. As the family invites guests for two days during Navaratri, they rope in caterers to serve the guests. They prefer counters to be set up for mini idli (served with different podi options), poori and dosa counters. Appam and idiyappam are also popular. Apart from this, there is also a variety of sweets. The golu at Andal’s residence is thematic, and last year’s theme was Tirumala Tirupati; the year before it was Shirdi Sai Baba. This year they have decided to highlight gold plated dolls. “Navaratri was different during the 70s and 80s, where we served the naivedhyam of the day, but today it has emerged as a major social event which provides an opportunity to invite friends and relatives home and serve them high tea.”

TIrumala theme golu at the residence of Andal Aghoram, last year
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Soumya Ramesh, of Arusuvai Catering Services, who along with her brother N Sridhar, takes up catering services during Navaratri says that this idea of an elaborate traditional high tea has been gaining popularity over the past decade. “We begin with a welcome drink (fresh juice or rose milk) and normally, set up idli, dosa, and appam stations. We have one variety of rice (coconut rice, coriander rice etc), kichadi, one sundal and freshly brewed filter coffee. One sabudana-based item is included in the menu. For dessert, it is chilled kheer. Based on requirement we either use the bandhi style or we have a buffet,” she says, adding that some families prefer just one counter with pani puri and bhel puri, a welcome drink and filter coffee. Bharath K of Arrvee Catering in Alwarpet says that they just prepare the food and send it across. He offers a set menu of mini samosa, bonda, sundal, podi idli and mini oothappams. Chef Santhosh says that he ensures that his staff who serve are also thematically dressed in veshtis and silk saris during Navaratri.

Septuagenarian Prema Srinivasan, looks forward to this festival as she gets the opportunity to meet her school and college friends. “We end up spending a couple of hours, and my cooks prepare a good spread. I prefer to serve homemade milkshakes or juice, paniyaram, kichadi, kesari, sundal and maybe sandwiches too. While one day I invite all my friends, on another, I invite my relatives,” she says.

The High tea spread at Latha Ganesan’s Navaratri celebrations
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Special Arrangement

Latha Ganesan, who celebrates this festival with prayers and chanting every day, says that this is a positive trend. “Ahead of the festival, I prepare three or four types of traditional sweets such as badusha, Mysore pak, and varieties of laddoo. During this annual get-together, I divide the invitees into friends and relatives. More youngsters are attending these get-togethers. Socialising is the highlight of Navaratri and like in western countries, high tea is becoming more prevalent. Due to the city expanding and people travelling from far away, I always serve an elaborate meal for guests during Navaratri,” she says. She feels that dhokla, sabudana vada or kichadi, sevai, keera vada or bonda along with sweets and coffee or fresh juice is the apt menu for the season. This year, however, Latha and her four friends plan to have a potluck at one of their homes. “I am happy to see this trend, some of my friends organise concerts and bring in mehendi artists and hire caterers. It is good for the younger generation to use this time to socialise with cousins and relatives. We must keep alive our traditions and when food takes centrestage, it makes it memorable,” says Latha.

Sixty-year-old Lakshmi Krishnan, who has been displaying her golu since 1993, says she looks forward to two days during Navaratri every year. “It is a great opportunity to connect with my cousins and close friends and I always serve them dinner and spend quality time with every one of them. We hire caterers and it is usually tiffin, served in the lawn and for the elderly we serve the food inside the house. Each day I invite close to 35 to 40 people,” she says.

“Whatever religion we may follow, we must celebrate festivals with fervour. It is not easy to coordinate and organise everything and send out invitations for four days, but we make an effort and make it memorable as I think festivals are important. Especially Navaratri, as it is a community festival where everyone can participate,” says Andal.